Erenler Tea Room – nargile in Istanbul



The archetypal traditional tea room in Istanbul. Once a male-only domain, the place is more mixed these days, though there’s still a majority of guys puffing away on their nargile (or water pipe)


The review of this tea room in Istanbul appears in the book of our travels from the UK to Australia via 25 countries.

Crossing Paths, Crossing Borders

This 2016 publication recounts our journey from Yorkshire to Australia via 25 countries. It includes an annex with our 100 top tips for coffee or tea on the road, including this venue.

Read the full description of this book on the books page and if you like what you see you can buy it from there too..


It’s tea all the way in this traditional Turkish tea garden, unless you fancy puffing on one of the many nargiles or water pipes available. And I think they also serve up traditional Turkish coffee. But this is not a place you’ll find scones or cake to have with your cuppa. Tea comes in cheap, it is in plentiful supply, and there’s a small choice between a glass (yes, no cups here either!) of normal black tea or an apple tea, usually served up with lots of sugar. You don;t come here for the quality of the leaf but for the extraordinary atmosphere, with its constant low-level buzz and relaxed feel.


Yeniceriler Caddesi 36/28, Istanbul

Contact details

Tel: +90 212 511 8853

Web address

No web presence but this place will be in most tourist guides for Istanbul

Opening Hours



Getting there

The street is easy enough to find and the trams slide past the place, but finding the opening in the wall through which you need to pass to enter this tea room can take a while unless you know where to go. It’s behind a cloisters-style wall right by the tram line, with just a type-written piece of A4 paper pinned to the wall to mark the entrance the day we were there!

Google maps

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